On the PS4 and Xbox there is no console level calibration. Some games do have pedal calibration and settings.

Logitech® G920 Driving Force™ Racing Wheel User Guide Logitech® G920 Driving Force™ Racing Wheel User Guide

First off I’d like to thank AXC for the excellent customer service. I had a question about my brake kit not showing up in a timely manner and they responded instantly. It was a FedEx issue and not AXCs. On to the review. The TrueBrake was easy to install, took about 30 minutes using the videos provided. I first did a couple practice laps in a Skip Barber car and instantly noticed my laps were extremely consistent and about 1 second faster around Oran Park. After I got used to the feel I jumped in a fixed Ferrari race at Summit Point. Fastest lap prior to install was 1:12ish. I qualified pole position with a 1:9.2 and finished second as the #16 car. Can’t say enough about how awesome this thing feels. If you are on the fence do not hesitate. Thanks! Now has become a consistently brake system, that allowed me to decrease my lap time, and overall to be consistent lap by lap. It feels enough hard, but more easy to manage. I’m using the smallest buffer, and it is great!!!! it really seems a load cell!!This easy to install, plug and play mod allows you to apply your understanding of how braking works in real life through the pressure of your foot so your brain doesn’t have to actively think about the position of the pedal. The only thing that is missing is the vibrations. The main problems with the default Logitech brake pedal are: Too much travel, too little resistance, and that the pot gets dirty. Logitech tried to fix this on the 920 with the rubber bung in the spring, and on the 923 with the progressive spring. Neither was ideal. I used to own a load cell brake mod for the Logitech pedals. I prefer the True Brake. It fixes the problem with the amount of travel and the amount of resistance, and presumably also fixes the issue with the pot getting dirty (as it is inside the cylinder now). And as we know from Hooke’s Law that a non-variable spring compresses a certain amount based on the amount of force, the pot in the True Brake is measuring the pressure applied by the foot, just like a load cell. (I prefer the True Brake to the load cell I had previously because the load cell needed too much force applying for full brake travel, plus I like a bit of movement on the brake, it is what the brake in my real car does). It takes real effort to reach 100% brake pressure, but nothing over the top. Heel and toe is so much better with the mod. More control is possible, and blipping the throttle whilst on the brakes is easier as the brake pedal depresses a much reduced distance. Added much needed realism to the brake. Very happy. Beautifully made and easily fitted, this feels just like a proper brake pedal. Supplied spacers and optional springs allow for adjustment even on console. The softest spring is perfect for my arthritic knee. Wholeheartedly recommend the truebrake.

Logitech G920 + G29 Handbrake Mod - How To | Budget Gaming Logitech G920 + G29 Handbrake Mod - How To | Budget Gaming

I’m using a typical gaming chair that slides around, so I bought a cargo strap to prevent moving when pushing the pedals in. That strap fastens to the stand, then I wrap it around the chair base before fastening the other side to the stand. It works pretty well as an alternative to a full chair mount for racing. Logitech 920 Racing Wheel I just received my Truebrake. Installation is easy, if you have tried modding the brakes before (G29).Now once installed the brake is Hard and I would say if you don’t have a rigid sim frame it could be an issue as the force required is substantial. So if you have a foldable playseat the frame will definitely move under braking. I’m so impressed. I have used the truebrake for 3 months now and it has made a great difference to my consistency. It’s important to make sure you have a stable, rigid seat so that you can make the best of it. Once you do, it is so much easier to judge and refine your braking as you repeat laps. With the TrueBrake mod, you can achieve better control over braking inputs. The progressive resistance allows for more precise modulation, making it easier to apply the desired amount of braking force consistently. The noise you describe was probably coming from the large M6 bolt not being tight enough. If the bolt will not tighten up enough to stop any movement then adding a washer will solve the issue. Glad to hear you like your TrueBrake! Cheers, Rob. I’m working with the Vevor steering wheel stand. It’s easy for me to move and can fold down for slimmer storage.

Adding handbrake to Logitech g920 for Xbox series x Adding handbrake to Logitech g920 for Xbox series x

On the PC you can calibrate the maximum braking to your liking in the windows control panel or G-hub software. Totally worth the money. At First i had my problems to get used to the pressure, but trailbraking is now easier. Doesn’t make me really faster because i am not that good, but constancy is overall better now. I put some scales against a wall to test my braking force with my office chair and got about 25kg or 30kg at a push, so went with the green spring, which seems to have been the right answer (I can push hard but don’t need to push my chair over to reach 100%). Having the kg rating on the spring options really helped there. For info, I have an office chair with castor cups and my pedals are set against a wall. Installation was fairly easy - there are a large number of screws to remove which takes time, then you have to remove the pedal assembly and detach the existing wires from the brake pedal. Once that's done you choose one of the two options for pedal travel before the brake engages and install the TrueBrake replacement into the pedal. The connecting wires can then be attached to the new component and then everything can be re-assembled. Took me a few hours to get used to it and i had to relearn braking for every car (iRacing), but consistency and lap times started to improve greatly. Trail and threshold braking is much easier now and controlable for cars without ABS.

To round out my racing setup, I bought an authentic emergency brake handle. It’s a real car emergency brake handle that provides analog input. Instead of pressing a button to go full on e-brake, you can apply a little or a lot of brake. Changing to True Brake solved both issues. I am now lapping with very constant pace. I am very far from ACC record laps, (but for that no mod or gear is going to help LOL) but I am now enjoying the racing. I can be consistent, and I can try to push always a bit more to find the limit. If you do not have the budget, or the space to install a full size rig with expensive sets, this is a no brainer.