If you don’t have the budget to hire a tractor to remove 6-12 inches of soil, what is a cheaper alternative that might still work, if you’re in an area with only occasional rain or flooding? Dr. Ann Swinker (professor of Equine Sciences) says: Before I dive into each surface type, I need to bring up one of the most important ground features you need to have – drainage! Asking what type of sand is best for horse stalls is critical to choosing the RIGHT sand for your horse stall; one decision can SIGNIFICANTLY affect your horse’s comfort and health.

Read More: 20 Things No Horse Owner Should Have in Their Barn Wood fencing is highly visible and strong, but cost can be a downside to this option. So, if you are looking for a simple but useful copper electric fence system, this one will be great! If you wish to provide your horse with even greater protection without a lot effort, you can attach additional tarpaulins to the panel with a roof. If the dimensions of 3.60 x 4.00 m are not sufficient for you, you can extend the corral panel to 7.20 x 4.00 m. This will provide a shelter for several horses and ponies. We also have a VOSS.farming corral panel with a door for you, if you wish to add a gate to your shelter. Safety on corral panels with VOSS.farmingChoose a well-constructed corral made of high-quality, durable materials that can withstand weather conditions and daily horse activity. Common materials include wood, metal, or a combination of the two. Location In the middle of the worst rains of winter, the 3/4 inch gravel has the best drainage and keeps the surface drier, even during a full day of rain:

One word of caution: I’ve been using it for 6 years, no problems, but recently, recently, almost lost one of my horses to colic. Vet found him full of crusher run. I‘ve always fed both of my horses soaked hay cubes from feed tubs, along with free pasture access. We don’t know if it built up over years of ingesting a little at a time, or if he somehow swallowed a whole bunch at once. He’s recovering, but it’s been a slow, agonizing process. I don’t know if this will help anyone, beyond being aware of it, as I’m not sure myself how to prevent it. Currently, I’m adding bran and mineral oil into the hay cubes, and also doing the once a month ‘Sand Clear’ (for both horses, as a precautionary). Thanks again for the very informative article! Reply Drainage is one of the most important ground features to maintain a clean and healthy horse living space.But it is very important that you choose a model that is made for you and your horse’s circumstances. Horses need access to shelter not just from the winter weather but also during the summer from the sun and flies. Shelter can either be man-made in the form of a field shelter or natural, for example trees or hedges (although a tree that sheds its leaves in the autumn won't provide shelter!). Rugs also provide a degree of shelter for the horse. Horses, particularly cobs and native types, are well adapted to living outdoors all year round with the correct management methods.

When you travel with your horse a lot or have temporary fencing projects, you will need the product with high portability – which means it must be compact, easy to establish and handle. Height Limestone dust and stone dust, for instance, can cause respiratory problems in horses due to the fine particles they produce. Different flooring materials, such as limestone dust, stone dust, horse shavings, rubber mats, and wood chips, affect the horse’s hooves and respiratory system. However, it is popular with some farriers. One farrier made these remarks about crusher dust: “ It keeps their feet in the best shape of all the footings I’ve dealt with.” [3] Yes. Horses should have some sort of shelter that they can go in and out of as they please. Many of these shelters are called run-ins because they allow horses to run into them when they want to. Horses don’t like standing in the rain, and they would much prefer to be able to get under cover during stormy weather.It depends on the panels. For example, the horizontal rails should be closer to prevent these animals from putting their heads through the panels. Q5: How can I find the material of the corral suitable for my horses?

A barn I had advised on brought in a chipper to make custom chips this size. It worked well for them as they were just there for a few years. Have to be careful, I’ve seen a smaller piece (at another barn) of chip get wedged up hard in between the bar and frog. Horse was very lame. The rubber – or rubber matting – helps to provide a stabilized surface and is dust-free. It is cushioning, so better for a horse’s leg joints and tendons if they spend long periods standing on it [2]. diameter posts with double-spiked feet are spaced every 12.5’ on the 4’ tall fence. Vertical plastic breakaways are spaced every 2 feet for the safety of a horse that tries to break through.

A 40 x 18-m riding arena is made up of 36 x 3 m-electric fence panels. An additional 2 panels with a gate are also installed. During construction, especially when erecting long, straight sides, make sure that the posts are used to stabilise the fence. Z-posts and VOSS.farming T-posts are suitable for this. The 3 m-corral panels also form the basis for VOSS.farming’s mobile panel tent Mobile panel tent – the panel with a roof – Voss.farming’s panel tent – the mobile horse stall with that extra something If you have a horse that is liable to shift around a metal or plastic corral will work, or maybe an electric netting fence is the way to go. Choosing the right horse fence is essential because it will protect not only your horse but your property as well.